Issia explained to us several times during our visit that he worked with Berber women who had been beaten or divorced. Now came the time to visit his warehouse to see their work. Or someone’s. Another beautiful young man, with an absurdly oversized technicolour turban, told us all about wedding carpets and vegetable silk and all sorts, but although the carpets were truly beautiful we weren’t buying. Time came to leave, and Issia had arranged a very nice quiet old man for us to give a ride to, back to his own village. Then back to the road, some more spectacular scenery with everchanging colours, and there were were in Ait Ben Haddou under, eventually, that black, black sky.

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