It has suddenly become unaccountably hot, and today was St Peter and St Paul's day. They are the patron saints of Rome, and so the entire city takes a day off and decamps to the beach. Alas, Peter and Paul are not the patron saints of the commune where I work, so no holiday there. But the day still had an impact, mostly because of the traffic.

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I've never really believed that adversity brings out the best in one, blitz spirit and all that. Yesterday I changed my mind. There was to be a little party here, and I had set my heart on serving Bloody Marys, even though it was Saturday and for some reason I associate Bloody Marys indelibly with...

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SkullAges ago I was swimming in a hotel pool in northern Kenya when a friend came up and dumped a fossil tooth in my hand. He'd just found it, and didn't yet know much about it. "Hominid?" I asked, not all that tentatively. "Yes. Probably around 6 million years old." And I have to confess a little shiver ran through me. Daft, of course. But there I was, holding a very old tooth that almost certainly was nothing to do with me personally, and yet …

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Up into Tuscany on Saturday, to meet an old friend and make a new one, thanks to the efforts of another friend who is one of those people at the centre of intersecting circles without end. There was much good conversation, in which a trifling gap of, perhaps, 15 years was of no consequence. And on...

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There is something unutterably surreal about having what seems like yards of gauze pulled out of one's nostrils. For a start, who knew there was so much room in there? With only a finger as probe the cavity hardly seems big enough for a pea. Now I understand how mediums of old were able to produce v...

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