How to do in words the changing of the light as the sun sets on the kasbah? Can’t really be done, so why try? Only to attempt to set down one aspect of it, and that is the paradoxical speed with which it happens. You stare and stare at the rich red-brown of the walls, ornamentation and jutting beams...

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On the way here to the Gorges du Dadés we had two good stops and a detour. At the first stop, the Cafe du Pont on the way in to El-Kelaa M'Gouna, The Squeeze ordered saffron tea. There was a moment’s consternation, then off went the young man to prepare it. While we waited a stream of sheep flowed a...

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Issia explained to us several times during our visit that he worked with Berber women who had been beaten or divorced. Now came the time to visit his warehouse to see their work. Or someone’s. Another beautiful young man, with an absurdly oversized technicolour turban, told us all about wedding carp...

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It happens every journal on every trip: out of synch. Sitting at the very top of the kasbah at Ait Ben Haddou, overwhelmed by the land all around, and I have not got us here yet. But I can always go back to how we came.

The town is spread out below along the river and the road, the usual non-ortho...

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Having filled up and found our way to the road for Ouarzazate, everything fell into place. Easy driving, even on the hairpin turns into the High Atlas. The main danger was men and boys holding fossils out by the side of the road, beckoning us to stop and then, some of them, running frantically after...

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